Ginger and Osun

Ginger and Osun
Casa Branca, Salvador

Sunday, July 3, 2011

Lecture #1 in Salvador

Lecture by Fulbright doctoral student Willys Santos this morning on the formation of society in Bahia. He is a practitioner of the Afro-Brazilian religion of Candomble so at 2:30 ths afternoon, we are going to visit the Terreiro Vasa Branca (The Dandomble White House) to see what it is all about. It is located at Avenida Vasco da Gama, 463 in Salvador just in case readers wish to visit themselves. I am inserting a little paraphrased bit of information from the web on Candomble.

Candomblé in Bahia

When you hear the percussionist beat of drums in Salvador, a city located to the northeast of Brazil, it may be coming from one of several halls of Candomble which are located throughout this Afro-Brazilian city. Most of these terreiros are accessible to visitors but bear in mind that you must respect their traditions and dress appropriately. Men, leave your flip flops and shorts at home, wear long pants and cover your feet. Women, wear longer skirts and try to don a white dress or blouse As a favored color denoting purity of mind and intention, white shows respect to the orixás (deities).

A more accurate representation of the word orixa is saint. Candomblé belief accepts the belief in a monotheistic supreme being referred to as Olodumaré. The orixás are called upon as intermediaries between humans and those of the spiritual world just as medieval Christians called upon the Virgin Mary or favored saints to intercede with Jesus or God the Father on their behalf.

Lonely Planet gives a nice description of what to expect if and when you visit a terreiro of Candomble. Below is a web site to find some lists of terreiros -- www.bahia-online.net/Cabdomble.htm You can also read the fictionalized tale of Candomble by Brazil's famous author, Jorge Amado, Tent of Miracles. Jorge was a Baiano and an initiate of Candomble. His orixa was the saint Chango.

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